How do I know if a diamond is genuine?
Our products are genuine and follow international standards. Specialized equipment and expertise are required to ensure a diamond is genuine. Do not trust ideas such as scratching a beer bottle, thermal conductivity, looking through, comparing weight, etc. If the diamond is accompanied by a certificate, you will know it is real and whether it is treated artificially.
Which shape gives me the greatest value for my money?
Round brilliant diamonds are the most popular and brilliant type of diamond. Fancy colored diamonds look more elegant in larger sizes andtend to look larger than they are by virtue of their shape. Furthermore, round brilliant diamonds best hide defects and yellow tints.
What is some important terms I should know?
- Facet: Any of the flat “sides” of the diamond.
- Table: The top octagonal facet on a brilliantly cut stone
- Girdle: The typically frosty, white ring at the widest part.
- Culet: The bottom facet on a brilliant cut stone
- Pavilion: The portion of the stone below the girdle
- Crown: The portion of the stone above the girdle
- Diameter: Width of the diamond as measured through the girdle
- Fire: The quality of the diamond that breaks reflected light into a colorful array.
- Depth – Height of Gemstone from Culet to Table
- Brilliance: The quality of the diamond that reflects light without changing it (also called sparkle).
- Fluorescence: The characteristic of some diamonds to fluoresce certain colors under light.
- Natural: Usually found on the girdle. A small section on the side of the raw diamond. It appears as a slightly rough flat spot on the girdle.
- Feather: A “crack” in a diamond, appearing as a white feather within the stone.
OK; now that I know the terminology, what should I look out for?
Facet, Table, Girdle, Cutlet, Pavilion, Crown, and Diameter describe the geometry of the diamond. Fire and sparkle are variable characteristics that are determined by the proportions of the diamond. Modifying proportions to increase one may decrease the other. Look for a good balance of fire and sparkle. Fluorescence occurs naturally and synthetically but beware of severe fluorescence. Naturals if not severe are not bad. Small feathers are common and should not be considered a defect. However, any crack that extends more than 1/3 of the way through the stone may cause structural problems.
How many facets does a diamond have?
On a brilliant full-cut stone, there are 58 facets; 32 facets plus the table above the girdle and 24 facets plus the culet below the girdle. Some stones with only 18 facets are referred to as “single cuts”.
What are the "four C's" relating to diamond quality?
The four C’s are Carat (weight), Color, Clarity and Cut of the stone.
The weight of the stone, referred to in points in case of small stones. 1 carat is 1/5 of a gram or 200 milligrams. There are 100 points to a carat. A 75-point stone is .75 carat. “Carats” represent the weight and not the physical size of the stone.
Color is usually undesirable in diamonds. Typically, ratings will be alphabetical with the earlier letters of the alphabet having less color. The following letters describe the types of colors you may see:
D, E and F – “Colorless”
G, H, I & J – “near colorless”
K, L and M – faint yellow or “top silver”
N to Z – very light or “light yellow”
Z+ – grades are considered “fancy yellow” Most stones you will find will be in the E-F to the J-K range.
You will typically find ratings such as this:
The purer a diamond, the greater its value. The GIA defines the qualifications for each group from I3(very flawed) to Fl(Internally flawless). These ratings are based on noticeable inclusions within the diamond. Inclusions are imperfections within the stone. Inclusions range from bits of carbon (black spots) to slight cracks (called “feathers”) within the stone.
FL-IF: The highest clarity grades possible
The diamond in question will be without imperfections, and is examined under x10 magnification. Some blemishes may be permitted externally bringing the stone to a clarity of “IF” or Internally Flawless”.
The VVS (Very Very Slightly Included) group is divided into two subgroups: VVS1 and VVS2.
VVS1: These diamonds are very close to being internally flawless. Only a minute imperfection, that is almost impossible to detect under magnification, lowers it to a VVS1 grade.
VVS2: Great buys for people who would like a flawless diamond but would rather not pay the high price of a VVS1 diamond. It is very hard to see the imperfections in this diamond even under magnification.
The VS(Very Slightly Included) group is similarly divided into VS1 and VS2 subgroups. This group is below VVS2 in terms of quality.
VS1: Have imperfections that are very hard to detect with a jeweler’s loupe. These diamonds are much cheaper than the IF-VVS2 range and are very popular.
VS2: Considered to be without significant inclusions. They are the most popular in the VS2-IF range. Very difficult to detect the imperfection without the aid of a jeweler’s loupe.
SI1, SI2 and SI3(Slightly Included): The most common types of diamonds
The majority of engagement diamonds bought today are of the SI range. Inclusions and imperfections in this group may be easily visible with the aid of x10 magnification.
SI1: Inclusions can be seen easily with x10 magnification but cannot be viewed with the naked eye. This is the most popular clarity today. These diamonds are 100% eye-clean, so for all practical purposes when in a ring they will look clean with no imperfections.
SI2: Inclusions can be seen easily with x10 magnification. In some cases, inclusions in the SI2 can be viewed with the naked eye. Inclusions in a SI2 diamond are easier to see if looking at the side of the diamond, and less so if looking from above. Prongs of the jewelry can cover the sides of an Si2 diamond, leaving you with a “clean” diamond that can be significantly cheaper than a SI1 diamond. These diamonds are cheaper then SI1 diamonds.
SI3: Inclusions can be seen very easily with x10 magnification. In most cases (stones above 3/4 of a carat) imperfections can be viewed with the naked eye. This grade is not recognized by the GIA and thus we do not sell them. Other less strict labs do use this grade.
I1, I2 and I3(Imperfect): The imperfect group is the final group on the diamond scale. Flaws in diamonds from this category are visible with the naked eye
I1: Diamonds in the I1 range are still pleasing to the eye. The imperfection is not large enough to take away from the general brilliance of the stone. In many cases the I1 impurity is off to the side of the diamond and can be covered up quite nicely by the rings prongs thus leaving you with a “clean” diamond for a very reasonable price. This is the lowest clarity grade we sell.
I2: Diamonds in the I2 range have large imperfections that in some cases cover a substantial portion of the stone. They are also easily visible to the naked eye. We do not sell I2 quality diamonds.
I3: If you’re shopping for “rejection grade” diamonds, this is the group for you. These diamonds are so heavily included that they have essentially lost any appeal, or “life”. We do not sell I3 quality diamonds.
All diamonds are cut. The resultant dimensions of the cut stones vary. All dimensions are given as a percentage of the width at the girdle. There are a few accepted ideal cuts, which have all of the proportions within a few percentage points of an optimum mathematical model. This optimum model returns maximum light through the top of the stone, resulting in maximum brilliance.
What is the most important C in the choice of a diamond? Color or Clarity?
The most desirable color of the diamond is white. The Color scale ranges from D to Z, where D is the whitest of the white and hence most expensive. However, colors between E to H are regarded as very white, and you cannot make out the difference in color once a diamond is set. However, diamond color becomes more obvious in larger size diamonds, or when the shape differs from the typical round brilliant diamond. For instance, step cut diamond shapes like emerald and Asscher cuts require a higher quality of color and clarity as they have large see-through facets which make it easy to see any imperfections.
Color is something that can be discerned with the naked eye. Hence, it is advisable to buy as white a diamond as you can afford in your carat range, in an eye clean or better clarity.
If a diamond has slight blue fluorescence, it could render your H or J color whiter. Also, if the stone is very well cut, it makes both the clarity and color better.
Clarity is not a factor you can judge only by looking at the diamond under magnification.
What is most important of the 4 Cs in India?
In India, Color takes precedence over Cut. The order or priority for most Indian customers if Color -> Cut -> Clarity. In Southern India, where most customers are particular about dosham (defects), clarity is the most important consideration in selecting a diamond. Here, the order of priority is Clarity ->Color -> Cut. However, if a customer asks for a recommendation, we always advise to prioritize Cut and Color over Clarity. This is because diamonds up to S1 grade are “eye clean”. The inclusions are visible only under the loupe to a trained eye, and does not make any difference to the way the diamond looks.
Is the shape the same as the cut?
No. They are different. The real “cut” refers to the quality of the final product in maximizing the return of light. Four shapes of diamonds are the most popular: Round (or brilliant), Emerald, Marquis and Pear.
What is an "Ideal Cut"?
The “Ideal Cut” is a cut based on a specific set of proportions for a round brilliant diamond, proposed by gem cutter Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919. While Tolkowsky’s original theories presented only one particular combination of proportions for creating the best balance of brilliance and dispersion, today the American Gemological Society recognizes any diamond falling within a narrow range of proportions and finish quality as being an “Ideal Cut” (also called an “AGS 0” or “AGS triple zero”). Essentially, the larger the table, the greater the brilliance at the expense of fire. A generally termed ideal cut will have a table percentage between 53% and 57% and a depth or height of 58% to 60%. Expect to pay 15%-20% more for an ideal cut stone. Avoid stones with table percentages above 70% or depths over 64% or under 57%.
I know that most rings have inclusions; what is OK and what is not?
Beware of the following flaws: large milky, cloudy areas and big cracks which reduce durability. These include big feathers (big meaning 1/3 the diameter of the stone or more), big chips, and white, black or colored lines. They reduce brilliance and threaten durability
Is there any way to identify a poor cut?
Yes. You can tell if a stone is poorly cut by looking for a white circle resembling a donut in the face-up view of a diamond. It occurs when the pavilion is too shallow and the girdle is reflected out. If you also see obvious dark spots/centers when viewed face-up, these indicate that the pavilion was cut too deep. Extremely thick girdles reduce the brilliance and make the stone look small for its weight. A girdle of uneven thickness (for reasons other than geometry) around the stone is also indicative of a poor cut. One good way to see how well a stone is cut is to view it straight down on the table. The table and the four corners form a “square shape”. On well-cut stones, the sides of the square will bow in “slightly”. Sides that bow out are not ideal. A slight inward bowing may be tough to detect, so consider a seemingly perfect square to be a decent cut. Severely bowed-in squares are also undesirable.
What is the shape of the diamond used in engagement rings?
The most common is the round brilliant cut. It reflects more light back from the table, which accounts for its brilliance and popularity. Due to the facets or sides, inclusions (defects) are tougher to see. Shapes other than round are called “Fancies.” Some examples include the pear or marquis. The emerald cut is less common, especially for sizes less than 1 carat. Be aware that the shape of a diamond can affect its value.
What is the best shape of diamond for an engagement ring?
The best shape for you depends on: 1. Personal preference 2. Desired brilliance 3. Weight 4. Size 5. Shape and size of hand (experiment to find what is most flattering) 6. Color and clarity of diamond
Why do they seem to follow this pattern?
Small round diamonds are more common, easier to cut, and easier to sell than fancies. About 75 per cent of the diamonds sold in the world are round brilliant cut diamonds! For larger stones, rounds are in higher demand and the supply is limited. The only exception is the large marquis, which can cost as much or more than the round brilliant.
Should I get my diamond set in platinum or gold?
A platinum setting will usually work best with a diamond, though it is usually a little more expensive. Because platinum is a stronger metal, your diamond will be more durable with platinum. The cost of platinum is about four times that of gold but comparing the cost of gold relative to the diamond, the total cost will not differ so greatly. Platinum can accentuate the features of a clean, well-cut diamond. Gold may make a clear diamond look more yellow than it is, which may not be desirable. If you are looking at grades D-G and IF – VVS2, platinum may be a better choice.
I'm getting my diamond inspected/remounted/etc. How can I be sure they don't switch the stone on me?
Know where the inclusions are on your stone. Inclusions are the signature of diamond, which are the identifying marks. You can have it certified by the GIA for a fee. They will document the exact location of all identifying inclusions along with color and carat. This is the most precise and easy way to identify your own diamond. You can re-certify your diamond to compare it with the old certificate you have. Certification is not very expensive.
What should I look for in the workmanship of the stone?
For a brilliant cut, make sure the stone is round, and make sure the culet is not chipped or broken. The girdle should not be too thick or too thin, straight, and not look wavy from the sides. The facets of the crown should align with the facets of the pavilion; any misalignment will show itself in the girdle. With a loupe of a scope, look closely at the girdle. Stones that are cut in a hurry will have small cracks that extend into the stone, making it look fuzzy or “bearded”. Don’t confuse this with the natural frosty color of the girdle. If the symmetry of the stone is off, or if it is damaged, extra facets may be added. Be sure the table is parallel to the girdle and the culet (as seen through the table) is on-center and undamaged.
What are fancy colored diamonds, and which colors are most popular?
Fancy colored diamonds are called Z+ diamonds. Z+ diamonds are the rarest hence the most expensive. Yellow and pink diamonds are the most commonly sought after fancy colors, and most likely will continue to be for years to come. Of late, there has been an increased demand for orange, blue, and green colored diamonds. As they are rare in nature, supplies are limited, and demand can shift price.
How are color diamond prices determined?
Retail pricing is generally set by observing the prices of the competition, but prices depend on several factors: Hue (the rarer the color, the greater the cost), Richness or saturation of the color (ranging from very light to light to intense to vivid), Purity of the color (whether the color is bright and clear, or clouded), and Availability of stones.
What else should I know about color diamond prices?
Clarity, color distribution, and cut together determine the cost of a colored diamond. Diamonds less than 0.80 carat can cost 10%-20% less. Exceptionally well-cut stones and stones with a VVS or IF clarity can cost 10%-20% more. Certain secondary colors, such as brownish yellow, are less expensive.
Should we judge the clarity of a fancy color diamond the same way we do the clarity of a white diamond?
In a white diamond, clarity can make or break the stone, and VS clarity is usually ideal. For fancy color diamonds, clarity is not the most important factor. A fancy color diamond that is graded SI is still what is known as “eye clean,” meaning that inclusions cannot be seen with the untrained, naked eye. Additionally, small pinpoints or feathers do not usually affect fancy colors due to the deeper coloring of the diamond. Fancy diamonds of VS or better clarity are more uncommon in nature and therefore command a greater price. Tip: If you cannot easily find inclusions under a 10 times magnification you should become suspicious.
Do color undertones affect the diamond's worth?
A secondary undertone that enhances the color of a diamond is a plus. A secondary that detracts from the color is a negative. For instance, a purplish pink color diamond can be worth more than a pink diamond, depending on the amount and intensity of purple. A brownish tint in a pink diamond usually decreases its value, but can make it a more affordable gemstone. The predominant hue is always expressed as a noun, such as “pink.” Any secondary colors will precede the primary hue and are usually expressed with an “ish” at the end, such as purplish pink. This means that the primary hue of the diamond is pink with some hints of purple throughout. If the grade is stated as two nouns—like “brown pink,” it means the two colors are virtually even throughout the diamond.
What type of inclusions do you see most in color diamonds?
In colored diamonds, the inclusions are often crystals that exhibit much the same color as the diamonds. To the naked eye, these crystals blend right in with a diamond’s color and can create the appearance of more brilliance.
Are "champagne pink" diamonds desirable?
Champagne diamonds with a secondary pink color are popular. When face up, these stones display light through bold flashes of pink in their fire. Champagne diamonds are not as expensive as white diamonds. They are available in a sparkling range of champagne tones, from light to dark champagne to fancy cognac.
What is the Bow-tie effect?
The bow tie effect, visible to the naked eye, is often observed in marquise, oval, pear and some heart-shaped diamonds. The bow tie looks like two triangular dark shapes joined at a point in the center of the stone. It is caused by variations in the pavilion facet angles that are longer than wider. If prominent, it is considered a negative factor. In a well-cut diamond its appearance should be minimal or absent and certainly not a distraction.
What is a Cubic Zirconia?
Cubic Zirconia(CZ) stones are a man-made diamonds with optical characteristics very close to natural diamonds. On the Mohs scale of 1-10 for hardness, a CZ is 8.5 – 8.9, while a diamond is 10. Sand or dirt will not scratch a CZ or a diamond, but CZs and diamonds will both scratch glass. A CZ weighs more than a diamond, and this is the main way to tell them apart.
What are "synthetic" diamonds?
Real diamonds have been created naturally through intense levels of heat and pressure deep within the ground. Natural diamonds are between 70 million and 3 billion years old. They are mined, cut and polished by highly skilled craftsmen, and are not otherwise tampered with. Synthetic or ‘cultured’ diamonds are created in the laboratory. All synthetic or ‘cultured’ diamonds must legally be declared as such. Sheetal Diamonds Limited offers only are real and natural diamonds.
What are "conflict" diamonds?
All diamonds used in our ‘Create Your Diamond Ring’ items are accompanied by their original and unique diamond certificate. Certification for items in our ‘Diamond Jeweler Collection’ ensures that our diamonds are not extracted in war-zones or traded illicitly to fund conflict. We take great care to make sure our diamonds are responsibly extracted and manufactured.
Is it possible to have the certificate number 'engraved' onto the diamond?
Each GIA certified diamond of less than one carat in size has its unique certificate number microscopically laser inscribed into its girdle, meaning that there can never be any doubt that the diamond and certificate are one of the same. Sheetal Diamonds Limited also offers this service on other certified diamonds at the point of valuation as well. It is not possible to see this inscription with the naked eye, so a magnifying loupe and diamond expertise is necessary.
How does the HRD certificate compare to GIA certificate?
GIA is the older certificate and has become the most well-recognized and reputed certification agency, especially in the United States. On the other hand, HRD is well-regarded by the diamond community in Europe. HRD and GIA differ ever so slightly in systems of grading. Both strive to conform to their own system and overall, both do good and comparable jobs. You should to be able to buy a diamond with a high degree of confidence with either lab’s report.
How do I choose the largest diamond within my budget?
Use the search option on Sheetal Diamonds Limited that searches for loose diamonds and fill in your preferred budget details. You will get a range of stones that you can sort by size. Alternately, you can first enter the size of diamond you were considering. You can choose your diamonds from Sheetal Diamonds Limited Colossal collection if the size does matter to you. Sort the search results to see which diamond in this size suits your budget.
I am looking for diamonds without black inclusions. How do I identify those?
Since diamonds are natural materials, most come with some small internal flaws or inclusions that serve as defining characteristics, similar to birth marks. Completely flawless diamonds are extremely rare, and usually found only with collectors. For a good idea of the inclusions in a diamond, examine its certificate for a description of these. You need to have an idea of how the clarity of a diamond is measured, to understand the relative impact of inclusions. For instance, diamond inclusions can be characterized as Slight, Very Very slight etc. Visit the section on diamond clarity, for a better understanding of this.
Is it important that I buy a diamond that is accompanied by a certificate?
Yes. Buying with a certificate from a recognized authority such as the AGS, GIA or IGI means that your diamond has the credentials to be recognized worldwide as a valuable item. Resale values of diamonds drop drastically when unaccompanied by a certificate. Also, a certificate ensures the authenticity and purity of your diamond.
How to determine your Bangle Size?
If there is any round shape bangle that fits you properly, just take that bangle, place it on a plain sheet of paper, then take a pen or pencil, and trace out the inside edge of the bangle. Remove the bangle from the paper, you should see a complete circle on the paper. Then use a scale or a ruler and measure the diameter of the circle in inches. The standard bangle size is 2.25 inches.
Bangle sizes are usually in the range of 2.0 inches – 3.0 inches. Please do NOT use a measuring tape as they are not accurate. Before you take the measurement using a scale/ruler, please take a moment to look at the scale/ruler and see how many divisions are there on it. You can do this by counting the number of lines or divisions between any one inch. Some scales/rulers will have 8 or 10 or 16 lines (divisions/markings). If the scales/rulers has 8 or 10 lines (divisions/markings) between any one inch, it is NOT very accurate and it is not recommended to use this. Try to find a scale/ruler that has 16 lines (divisions/markings) between any one inch, this is the most accurate one.
When you take the measurement, say for example, it comes to 2 inches and 4 lines or divisions, then the bangle size would be 2-4/10 inches (if the ruler has 10 lines or divisions between any one inch) which will make the bangle size 2.40 inches. (DO NOT confuse this with INDIA bangle size of 2-4 or 2-4 anna, that is a completely different size. Please read the question below for additional information on 2-4 anna). Basically, if the scale/ruler has 16 lines or divisions, and when you measure it comes to 2 inches and 4 lines, then the bangle size will be 2-4/16 or 2.25 inches – this is the same as India bangle size 2-4 or 2-4
I do not know the ring size, how can I measure the ring size? There are 2 different ways to find out your ring size:
If there is any ring that fits you properly, just take that ring to ANY jeweler or any store selling jewelry like Kay Jewelers or Walmart. You then need to give the ring to the jeweler and request him/her to check the ring size. The jeweler will put that ring on a ring rod and inform you of the ring size as a number, for example, 7 or 7.5. Usually, no one charges any money for this service; it does not take much time either.
If you do not have a ring that fits you properly, then again you can go to ANY jeweler or any store selling jewelry like Macy’s or Walmart. You need to tell them that you need to find out your ring size. They will provide you with a bunch of plastic or metal rings of various sizes, wear them, and take your time to narrow down the best size to 2 different rings. Try and select the ring which fits you the best. Once you are sure of the ring that fits you best ask the jeweler for its size number. Usually, no one charges any money for this service either.